Riding Through Time

An epic horse ride through Australia’s Outback brings with it many stories

It’s the oldest continent on Earth, and said to be home to the oldest mountains, the oldest rivers and the oldest songbirds.

You can be easily mesmerised by the vast expanses of grasslands stretching to the wide horizons, broken occasionally by a jump-up or a rugged mountain range.

Yet more often, it’s what you don’t see in the Australian Outback that makes it so mysterious.

Feel the heat, feel the breeze. Smell the dryness, smell the red soil.

Listen to the land. Hear what it is telling you, what secrets it is giving up to those who are prepared to wait.

It’s one thing to drive through this countryside, but it’s quite another to see this extraordinary country from horseback.

That’s just what 31 riders did in the Winton-to-Longreach Endurance Horse Ride through Western Queensland on 28-29 July, 2023.

The 220km ride with one overnight stop at the Maneroo Wool Shed is regarded as the longest event of its type in Australia.

The horses and riders followed the stock route over two days.

The ride was to celebrate 100 years of the Queensland Country Women’s Association (QCWA) but also to revive the memory of the rides in the 1980s that provided momentum for the Stockmen’s Hall of Fame at Longreach.

All proceeds from the ride are to be donated to Angel Flight and the Royal Flying Doctor Service, which are essential services in Western Queensland where distances are so vast and communities so remote. That resulted in $10,000 cheques being presented to RFDS and Angel Flight.

All involved in the ride were thankful of the QCWA for bringing this ride back to life after four decades.

Riders from throughout Australia took part and found the local support to be amazing.

It’s only when you get to Western Queensland that you remember what a privilege it is to walk on this land, to be part of this ride.

The Winton and Longreach area is keenly linked with the early days of Australian sheep and cattle industry and those activities opened up this vast interior of what is the oldest continent on Earth.

It’s not just that Waltzing Matilda was penned here, it’s not just that Qantas was founded here as Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services, it’s the very fact that you are travelling across land that has so many hidden stories, so many secrets that it is giving up.

There are about 90 million years of environmental signposts buried here from when it was an inland sea, something we read about in books but didn’t really believe.

But now there is tangible evidence that such lush forest and areas existed. The dinosaurs roamed here and so many fossilised forms of life are being discovered.

The First Nations people have inhabited this land for 65,000 years.

This is something you try and comprehend while travelling across the seemingly endless grass plains or gazing into the night sky.

This is big sky country, where the stars come down to the horizons because of no introduced light.

It’s where you sit and wonder about our place in time.

GETTING THE SHOW ON THE ROAD

Planning committee member Craig Renner paid tribute to all involved in getting the ride up and running again, particularly the QCWA and fellow committee member and active endurance rider Laura Axsentieff from Longreach.

“The QCWA came to inquire about two years ago,’’ he said. “… a celebration for their 100th anniversary.

“They formed a sub-committee of their Central Western branch and after a lot of meetings we pulled it off, everything just seemed to fall into place.

“An endurance ride hasn’t been run since the ’80s, so we came out a couple of times to check the track and that worked out really well. “We’ve lucked out here with the recent rains. You wouldn’t get this weather in the countryside again any time soon.

“Talking to the locals, they tell you they’ve never seen the country look this good.

“They will welcome us out again as they reckon we are the rainmakers.

“They had to cancel last year’s ride because of the rain and ended up running one early this year.’’

Craig has been around horses all his life so far. He grew up in Mt Isa and eventually moved to Lowood in South-East Queensland.

Craig has two daughters, and they love the sport.

After a midnight start under a three-quarter moon at Winton Showgrounds, riders made their way to Maneroo Wool Shed on the first day, a distance of 180km.

Water troughs were at 10km intervals and veterinary check areas every 40km.

There was a midnight cut-off so riders had to do a run in front of the veterinary surgeons at 7am the following day to ensure they would be fit for the final 42km leg into Longreach.

“It’s the horses welfare that is paramount,’’ Craig said. “Some of the riders have come in at six o’clock and some at 10 o’clock at night.

“They needed a rest to be given a final check before the Sunday start.’’

Laura Axsentieff said there were some great horse people on the initial rides.

This ride was to be a huge challenge for horses and riders, and participants would also be able to see a little of what happened over the years when cattle were walked from Winton to Longreach.

The ride was along 90 percent of the stock route, with 22 gates that needed to be manned by volunteers.

READY TO GO

The ride is only part of the journey.

Speaking with Virginia Barber of Mainstreme Endurance at Winton Showgrounds before the start, she said it was all about the training, preparation and getting to the day of the event as much as the actual ride.

“We were planning the logistics to get the horses, the floats and back-up teams to Winton.

“Then there was the drive itself. Getting the horses from Wondai with an overnight stop at Emerald, then letting them out again at Barcaldine for exercise.

“There were three horses in one float and all the gear in another.

“A couple of horses did not start the event. They just weren’t up to the job ahead of them.

“It’s too far to go if they are not properly fit.’’

The Winton-to-Longreach Ride captured the imagination.

So many riders had spent the early part of the year getting ready for the major rides – the Tom Quilty Gold Cup in June, Stirling’s Classic before that and the Far-A-Way Easter Ride. Then there was the State Championships to consider.

It had been about 40 years since the last Winton-To-Longreach and the chance of another in the near future was uncertain.

This was a tribute to those who worked on the land with their horses before motor bikes, helicopters and quad bikes became a way of mustering, herding and droving stock.

AN ICONIC RIDE

At the age of 71, Ken Moir of Chatsworth was the oldest rider to compete.

Ken started riding at the age of six and this event has long been on his bucket list.

“But there has not been one for such a long time,’’ he said in those quiet moments before the start. “It was one of those rides to take part in before I die.

“It’s an iconic ride. Just getting there to the start … it’s what most most people think of.

“It’s as if we are going back to the beginning again.

“Soliloquy is the fittest horse I’ve got. It’s a long course. We don’t normally do such a ride in the first day.

“It is mentally challenging for the horse and the rider.

“Then there are the logistics of the back-up team leap-frogging riders to the check points. The field will be strung out.

“We need to be aware of the soil types and gibber stones.

“It’s a matter of preparing well … it’s a long way to jog and the horses like to get going.’’

I spoke to Ken again at the finish in Longreach. He crossed the line first on the final leg with eventual winner Andrea Laws-King.

He placed fourth in the middleweight division, in a time of 18 hours, 52 minutes.

This was despite being fatigued after the Saturday legs in near 30-degree heat.

Yet a good night’s sleep and a plate of porridge for breakfast, saw him finish strongly on Soliloquy.

“What a magnificent day it was on the ride into Longreach,’’ he said, “… the track was good under foot and to see the iconic tail of the Qantas 747 as we circled around the town, I knew we were on the right track.’’

QUITE A JOURNEY

Stephanie Malmborg loved the ride from start to finish.

“Actually from the journey out my front gate and back. The expanse, the terrain, the people I got to meet and know better.

“The feeling of camaraderie. The volunteers – oh my gosh, they outnumbered the riders.

“From sharing everyone’s pain and joy, the determination, tenacity, care and most of all I think one and all had fingers crossed for all riders.’’

Stephanie, riding Wattle Tree Amir, finished third in the middleweight division.

FOLLOWING THE FOOTSTEPS

At age 10, Taylor Grogan of the Mary Valley was the youngest rider.

Taylor has been riding since the age of two and kept pace with her mother Saasha, who finished second in the middleweight division on S’Shaada Zephyr.

Taylor, riding Anastazia VA, was the first junior to cross the line – the juniors having a 100 percent completion rate.

“It was very hard to do,’’ Taylor said at Longreach Showgrounds. “It took a lot of effort and you have to be gentle with the horse, especially when trotting.

“I feel very excited and happy. My favourite part was the finish line, just getting through.

“My mother was a great help by just being there.’’

Father and husband Mark Grogan was very proud of both Taylor and Saasha.

As strapper, it wasn’t hard work – he loved it.

Saasha, who also started riding at age two, said that going straight for so long on this ride was different to the out-and-back courses of most endurance events.

As such, it was important for both riders and horses to remain focussed.

“There are some of the best riders from throughout Australia taking part.

“This is a family sport that just sucks you in. Once you start, not many people leave.’’

PREPARATION COUNTS

For Imbil rider Matt Sample this was perhaps his greatest test.

Having a Tom Quilty Gold Cup and Queensland State Championships under his belt, this was the hardest event he has competed in.

Preparation is a major part of endurance riding but so is persistence, he said before the Winton race.

Persistence beats resistance and completion is to win.

Matt rode through the pain of having his horse roll on him in the 2023 Tom Quilty a month ago and placed fifth in the middleweight division.

A REAL INSTITUTION

Along the way we caught up with the branch members from the Morella QCWA who had set up a refreshments stall at Evesham Bore, complete with scones, jam and cream.

“That’s our little hall up at the crossroads,’’ branch member Jan Hetherington said.

“We started in 1930, so we have been going almost 100 years.’’

The Morella QCWA Hall is on the highway and the branch members said that’s all there is on the landscape, blink and you miss it.

But that’s wrong. When you’re out here, anything becomes important and you take notice of it – so much so that we went across the railway line, and photographed the hall in its sparse setting.

The railway line stretches to to the horizon both ways, and then what looks like the remnants of the showgrounds.

There are a couple of pole shelters and what looks like some yards way in the distance.

That’s Outback Queensland. Services such as the QCWA are what people do to provide support to others.

LOOKING AHEAD

We were chatting to two young girls from Toowoomba – one was riding and the other was strapping but normally takes part in the endurance rides.

We had a good talk about what it’s like to be out there on their own in the dark, riding through the night, and what were some of the challenges; and what they think about in order to maintain their focus.

It’s hard to stay focussed when it’s dark and it’s a fairly straight track, so when we asked how one of the riders dealt with that, she said the horse usually kicks in and has something that needs to be managed.

That pulls the rider out of the trance.

We were interested to know whether the girls saw endurance riding as being their future, or perhaps considered breeding or training others in horse riding.

One was talking about the University of Western Australia to complete a degree in vet nursing.

The course is aligned with her love of the animals, which she works with nearly every day.

As well as being very happy to get through the ride, they were supportive of the others coming in behind them.

They showed maturity beyond their years in regards to their attitude of supporting the team and being there for each other.

FUTURE ASSURED

Another remarkable tale from the endurance ride was that of emerging junior, Neeve Whittaker.

Amidst the dust and determination, Neeve captured hearts and admiration.

As a true embodiment of dedication and equestrian skill, Neeve was awarded the prestigious Radincon Vets Choice Award.

Under the watchful eyes of head vet, Dr Harry Wever, Neeve showcased an unparalleled bond with her purebred Arabian companion, El Shahranah Sharif. 

The synergy between rider and horse was remarkable, a testament to Neeve’s exceptional horsemanship and unwavering commitment to the sport.

Dr Harry himself was captivated by Neeve’s journey, stating that her horsemanship throughout the ride was nothing short of exemplary. Beyond the trail, her reputation as a “quiet achiever” resonated across the equestrian community, earning her the respect and praise of horse owners far and wide.

With the completion of this remarkable ride, Neeve reached the top of the Junior riders’ leaderboard in Queensland, boasting 1180 successful kilometres for the season. 

JOURNEY IN TIME

The Maneroo Wool Shed was an experience in itself.

I was told it was built about 20 years ago after the original burned down, it only saw about three shearing seasons before the drop-off in wool.

Then the property switched to dorper sheep, a self-shedding breed valued for their meat and that don’t need the shearing teams of the past.

It was fascinating to step inside and tread the floorboards – as if we were transported back in time.

This is a beautiful shed, raised up off the ground with high ceilings.

Tilt-up shutters allow plenty of fresh air through and there is a large working area as well as 12 chutes.

The wool press is on a rail so that it can be moved.

Today, there is just the sigh of the breeze to stir the memories.

REFLECTIONS

For Craig Renner, sitting in his motel room in Brisbane and trying to catch up on a few days’ work after the event, he looked back on a job done and done well.

“I would really like to thank the riders and strappers for keeping the highest standard for horse welfare I have probably seen, thank you for making our job a lot easier.

“Huge thanks to all volunteers … we couldn’t have done it without you.

“Our vet team was second to none, we had so much experience – I knew we were in great hands.

“This started nearly two years ago.

“Thanks everyone for making my experience of the outback amazing.’’

PERSISTENCE BRINGS ITS OWN REWARD

Research scientist Andrea Laws-King is the provisional winner of the iconic Winton-to-Longreach Endurance Horse Ride in Outback Queensland.

Andrea is based at Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula but has strong horse-riding links to Queensland and northern New South Wales.

She was among the leaders right from the start of the 220km event that recreated the epic rides from the two western towns that have played such a part in Australia’s early settlement – the birthplace of Qantas airline and the writing of Waltzing Matilda.

Andrea has had 30 years on the land – she spent 10 years at Kyogle in NSW and has a property at Beaudesert in Queensland’s Scenic Rim.

Her horse Flash is a 15-year-old chestnut gelding who was home-bred at Beaudesert.

The 2023 ride started at midnight Friday from the Winton Showgrounds. It was the initiative of the Queensland Country Women’s Association to celebrate 100 years of the organisation and a fundraiser for the Royal Flying Doctor Service and Angel Flight.

Significantly, Andrea has connections to both organisations.

She trains at a Mornington Peninsula racetrack owned by one of the pilots that flies for Angel Flight and who has completed 195 flights with them.

Her son was airlifted by the Royal Flying Doctor Service after a mining accident near Dubbo, NSW.

Andrea’s introduction to endurance was very innocuous. As treasurer of a local pre-school at Kyogle she was asked to do a fundraiser.

The committee president asked if she would do an endurance ride.

“I said, sure, what’s an endurance ride?

“I was loaned a horse for a 50km ride … and at the end of it I thought I was going to die.

“This isn’t the sport for me I thought, but after another few weeks decided maybe I’ll give it another go.

“I did a 40km ride and that continued to 80km. It just went from there.’’

Andrea’s fascination with horses started as a young girl.

“You just grew up wanting to be around them, wanting to ride and have horses.

“I went to school in country Victoria and would go to the properties of school friends.’’

Andrea spent eight years at Monash University where she gained a doctorate in reproductive biology.

At the end of the ride Andrea said she felt so proud.

“Just to look back, I’ve got goosebumps.’’

The motto of endurance riding is ‘to complete is to win’ and Andrea started the final day just wanting to get to the end and get the glass trophy to say you have finished successfully.

“I didn’t care if I came last.’’

Riding in at the head of the field on the final leg with eldest competitor 71-year-old Ken Moir of Gympie was an inspirational part of the event for Andrea.

“Ken is a legend,’’ she said. “He was unwell at the end of the first day.

“To get on and continue … that is grit.’’

At the other end of the age spectrum was 10-year-old Taylor Grogan, also from the Gympie area, who was among the early finishers on the ride into the Longreach Showgrounds.

Taylor was one of the four junior riders who started and finished the epic event.

Riding since the age of two, Taylor comes from a strong equestrian family.

Taylor crossed the line with her mother Saasha, and is the granddaughter of well-respected endurance enthusiast Bob Sample.

“Endurance is an incredible challenge,’’ Andrea said. “I worked at the old Queen Victoria Hospital in Melbourne and research is very challenging.

“Endurance was what I was missing.

“I gave it a go. I started with 40km rides and went to 80km. Championship level is 160km.

“This is another level again. This ride is huge. A one-off.

“I don’t know if it will be held again.

“The last time was in 1988.

“It’s 220km – 180km the first day then 40km the second day.

“There is no endurance ride in the world that I know of where you have those distances.’’

The Winton-to-Longreach ride is hard on both horse and rider. In endurance riding you have to be qualified through the distances to participate.

The course was flat yet psychologically difficult, Andrea said.

The weather was warm and riders needed to keep focussed.

“The fourth leg into Maneroo was the toughest. My horse was just over it.

“Mentally it’s not stimulating like when you have twists and turns, mountains and timbered areas.

“I was tired, dehydrated.

“A midnight start is hard as the horses are so fresh and you are just hoping to be able to control them enough so they are not over-racing.

“This landscape is amazing. You think about the landholders and the stock.

“I mean we are very lucky as they have had rain here recently.

“We wouldn’t be here if they hadn’t.

“The track would be hard and not enough water.’’

Part of the landscape was the fact dinosaurs had roamed here 95 million years ago.

“I thought, wow, but then thought more about the cattle and kangaroos.

“We saw some emus on the final leg, and that was fun.

“We were able to stop and get a couple of photos.’’

Endurance riding brings out the best of what this country has to offer – the riders, the horses and our magnificent landscape.

RESULTS

Middleweight: Andrea Laws-King riding Heathfield’s Flashrani in a time of 17:10:00;

Heavyweight: Matt Gadsby, 18:10:00;

Lightweight: Tracey Eastaughffe, 18:01:00

Junior: Taylor Grogan, 18:03:00.

Best conditioned horse:

Heavyweight: Matt Gadsby and Melcot Santini;

Middleweight: Saasha Grogan and S’Shaada Zephyr;

Lightweight: Tracey Eastaughffe and Shanelli-Park Phoenix;

Junior: Taylor Grogan and Anastazia VA.

220km event: 50 percent completion, 42km event: 66 percent completion.

FLASHBACK TO 1982

“At midnight on the 22nd of last July, the Governor Sir James Ramsay, dropped the flag that started the 1982 Endurance Ride from Winton to Longreach. Fifty contestants rode out into the night, lit only by the stars, to fight it out over 250 kilometres of open country.

Riders came from many states to compete in Australia’s longest endurance ride and included some rather colourful characters such as artist Hugh Sawrey, 72-year-old drover Walter Whelan and R.M. Williams, who is no chicken either.

A mixed bunch of jackeroos, stockmen, drovers, bushmen and cattlemen came riding stock horses, thoroughbreds and not-so-thoroughbreds. One lady competitor rode a mule.

No whips or spurs may be used and any inhumane handling or abuse of horses results in immediate disqualification.

Everything is done to protect the horses. The rider presumably has only himself (sic) to blame.

On the first day the riders cover 200 kilometres (120 miles). The next day, just to prove they still have some skin where rider and saddle meet, another 50 kilometres (30 miles) ride is on.

Veterinary check points are established every 24 miles along the track as are compulsory rest periods for horse and rider.

Best ride for 1982 was won by Jeff Marshall on Dunwidgerie St. Nicholas in 14 hours 27 minutes, for the prize of a golden horseshoe valued at $1500.

In all, 700 people were involved in organising the ride.

Best riding time for the 1980 Endurance Ride was 15 hours 18 minutes, and women’s lib will be pleased to note it was accomplished by Carmen Batterham on Country with an average time of a little over 10 miles per hour over the whole distance.

Carmen also won in 1981. She was a hot favourite for 1982 had her horse not been scratched due to injury.

The ride is promoted by The Australian Hall of Fame and Outback Heritage committee at Longreach, Queensland.’’

[From Jolliffe’s Outback #115]

FOOTNOTE:

A 2025 Winton-To-Longreach Ride has been scheduled by the Australian Endurance Riders Association for July 26-27.